Off the pallet. Into service.

4 inches of 3,000 PSI concrete is the usual minimum; heavy-duty models want 6. Measure total length (15 to 19 feet with ramps) and ceiling height (10 feet for most storage models, 12 for full-rise). 110V or 220V outlet within reach of the power unit, per the model.

Uncrate and inventory. Lay the runways on blocks, bolt the crossbeams to the posts, and raise the assembly with two helpers or a hoist. Set the posts on the chalked layout, square the diagonals to within 1/8 inch, and check runway spacing before anything is tightened.

Thread the four lifting cables over the sheaves exactly as the diagram shows, route the hydraulic line along the crossbeam, mount the power unit and fill with AW32. Fit the safety locks and slack-cable devices on all four posts and confirm each engages by hand.

Raise empty, purge air, and adjust the cable nuts until all four corners lock at the same height. Anchor the posts if the model calls for it, or fit the caster kit for a portable storage lift. Fit ramps and wheel stops, then test with a light vehicle and run the 5-minute drift check.

Cut the banding, lift the crate off, and check the machine, clamp jaws, mount/demount head, bead breaker, cones and weight tray against the packing list. Photograph the serial plate. Position the changer with 3 feet of clearance for the bead breaker arm and the balancer where a spun wheel cannot hit anything.

Bolt both machines to the floor through the base holes with the supplied anchors; a changer that walks across the bay under bead-breaker load will find your feet. Run a filtered, lubricated air supply at 115 to 145 PSI to the changer with a quick coupler, and fill the lubricator with air-tool oil.

Most changers and balancers run on 110V; three-phase and 220V models go to the electrician. Fit the shaft and quick nut, then run the balancer's self-calibration with a known-good wheel and the supplied 100 g test weight, following the manual exactly. Enter the wheel dimensions and confirm it reads within 5 g.

Adjust the mount/demount head gap to the manual's spec, grease the turntable slides and the bead breaker pivot, and set the clamp jaws for the rim range you mostly run. Practice on a spare steel wheel first: break both beads, demount, mount and inflate, watching that the head never touches the rim.

Cut the wrap and banding, check for freight damage, and photograph the serial plate. Fit the seat and steering wheel if shipped loose, raise the ROPS and pin it. On zero-turns, release the hydro bypass levers (set to freewheel for loading) so the drive wheels engage. Raise the deck to transport height.

Most engines ship with oil; verify on the dipstick and do not overfill. Fill with fresh gasoline (87+, no more than 10% ethanol), or diesel on diesel Gators. Connect the battery, positive first. Set tire pressures to the label (often 10 to 14 PSI rear, 15 to 20 front on mowers). Check the blades are tight and the deck belt is seated on every pulley.

Parking brake on, levers out, start. Confirm the seat switch kills the engine if you rise with the blades engaged and that the blades stop within 5 seconds. On a Gator, cycle 2WD/4WD, the differential lock and the cargo box latch. Drive off the pallet with the deck up onto firm ground.

Vary the load and avoid full-throttle sustained work for the first 5 hours. Change the engine oil and filter at the first-service interval in the manual (5 to 8 hours on most mowers, 10 on Gators) and log it; that service is a warranty condition.

Remove the crate and wrap, check the truck, forks, battery, charger, keys and manual against the packing list, and photograph the serial and capacity plates. Forks often ship strapped beside the carriage: hang them, set the spacing for your pallets and drop the locking pins.

Electric trucks: connect the battery, check electrolyte on flooded packs, and give a full first charge on the supplied charger before use (8 hours is typical). LPG trucks: fit a full cylinder, check engine oil and coolant. Both: check hydraulic level at the sight glass and grease the mast channels and chains.

Key on, seat belt on. Cycle lift, lower, tilt and side-shift through full travel with no load, check the horn, lights and reverse alarm, and confirm the parking brake holds on the pallet ramp. Drive off slowly onto level ground. Manual pallet jacks: pump the handle to raise, squeeze to lower, done.

OSHA requires forklift operators to be trained and evaluated before use; ask us for a certified course. Inspect chains, forks and tires daily, and do the 50-hour first service (hydraulic filter, chain adjustment, fasteners re-torqued) to keep the warranty in force.

Outdoors, on a level concrete pad or composite equipment pad, downstream of the filter and upstream of any chlorinator. Leave 24 inches of clear air on the intake sides and 5 feet above the fan; nothing overhanging. Keep it out of roof runoff and sprinkler spray.

Uncrate, inspect and photograph the data plate. Plumb the 2-inch PVC in and out unions in the flow direction marked on the unit, and fit a three-valve bypass so the heater can be isolated for service or winterizing. Run a condensate drain line away from the pad; a running heat pump makes gallons of condensate a day.

Most units need a dedicated 220V/240V circuit on a 30 to 60 amp breaker, an outdoor-rated disconnect within sight of the unit, and a bonding wire to the pool's bonding grid. This is code work and a warranty condition; have your electrician do it and keep the receipt.

Run the pool pump first, check the unions for leaks, then power the heat pump. Set the target temperature and confirm the compressor and fan start after the delay. Balance the bypass so the flow switch stays closed at your pump speed. Expect 1 to 2 degrees per hour; the first heat-up takes a day or two.